We started our final day with a 6am trip to North Seymour before breakfast, and found frigatebirds. These are the only seabirds not to have waterproof feathers, meaning that they can’t float. No other bird has a higher wing loading - the ratio of wing area to weight - and can fly continuously for weeks. They feed only at the surface, unlike boobies and other birds that can dive. Frigatebirds will use their agility to harass boobies (or anything else) and steal their catch.

After breakfast, we were put on shore at 8:30 am to wait for a worryingly long time for a bus to the airport. After checking in, everybody has to hand back their tourist cards before going through security. As with all Galapagean queues, there were hundreds of tourists and only two people doing the paperwork, but we made it on to our 10am flight with a few minutes to spare.