Quick notes on food and drinks:

• Orinoco - we went three days in a row. Long queues at peak hours but it moves pretty fast and you can always get a seat once you’ve ordered. Good selection of salsas, including a raita-like one that was not at all like anything else we had in Mexico, but goes really well with the roast potatoes they serve. A real lesson in how to balance acidity with fat.

• El Greco - middle Eastern themed tacos. Opens at 2 pm and is packed by quarter past.

• Baltra bar - tasty cocktails; full of noisy English people

• Taqueria Los Cocuyos - another Bourdain place; just a hole in the wall. Be careful of the salsa. Lots of exciting parts: lingua, cachetes (cheeks), and tronco de orejas (the fleshy part of a pig’s ear?)

• Pujol - We booked our flights out of Mexico after we’d got a reservation here (something like three months in advance; I’m sure it’s harder to get one now). They played the Money Programme theme in the restaurant, the churros were a life-changing experience for Susan, and the Madre Mole was just unforgettable. Probably the best meal we had all year.